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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.